Brave New World: Final Look #2

As with the first look I produced, I am also extremely happy with the outcome of the second, and final, makeup look. Though I like how the hair is rough and bunched up, I do look back and think it is possible I could have done something more dramatic, though was scared I'd make the look too busy and ruin it, saying this, I don't think the hair is all that important and isn't the main focus of the image so don't feel this is something I should dwell on.
Regarding the rest of the look, it turned out better than I could have hoped, I tried to focus on the small details to get it as perfect as possible, such as the arrangement of the scars, the eyeliner and red paint markings. The model I chose was the perfect choice, the look complimented her face well and she was more than happy to let me continue the makeup down onto her back. She also posed perfectly for the photos and I got so many beautiful photos.
I am also overjoyed with my makeup application, though the scarring took a while, it was all worthwhile, following her bone structure and styling the face chart around her face shape than the base I'd drawn. The foundation also matched well with her skin and helped blend the scarring whilst still keeping the pink colour, the brick red markings and lips also complimenting her natural skin tone very well.
Overall, I wouldn't feel the need to reshoot, I feel I have gotten some amazing and dramatic photos of the look, making the idea of scarification and tribal culture appeal from a fashion shoot point of view.

Brave New World: Final Look #1

Though this look is fairly plain and not very dramatic, I am very pleased with myself, looking back on it there isn't much I would change at all other than perhaps tinting the colour of the scarring more and making them redder like in most of the keloid scarring images I came across. But I am very happy with the rest of the look, I think the colour scheme, though simple, works very well and makes the look beautiful despite the appearance of the scarring across the cheeks and down the chin and neck, the model I used also works very well as her angler face works perfectly for the design used on her.
Despite the simplicity of the look and there being no factors that make it particularly striking, I still think the look is very beautiful, the scarring is rather subtle but completes the looks and makes it a tad more dramatic. If given the chance to improve, I really don't think there is anything I would change, I'm extremely happy with what I have produced.

Brave New World: Final Look #2 Breakdown

As with the first look, I first applied the scar moulds I'd made earlier in the day, following the face chart I first applied the scars around the eye, using mastik to get them to stick, curving them around the eyebrow and following my model's cheek bone.

After this was done, I added a small amount of the moulds onto both sides of my model's jaw line, keeping them as even as possible.

I then moved down to apply the moulds onto the collar bone, starting from the center and moving around onto the shouders and over them.

After the front was done, I continued onto the back, creating simple shapes to following and fill in with the scars as evenly as I could, completely one side and moving to the second using the opposite side as reference.

Once all the scars were applied and I was happy with the designs I had produced, not over doing them, I applied foundation over all exposed skin of my model (face, neck, chest and back). I made sure not to apply too much foundation over the moulds so they would remain pink like keloid scars, once I was happy with this, I powdered it all to set before darkening the eyebrows and starting on the eyeshadow. (See first picture for reference).

The eye shadow wasn't much different from the first look though much lighter and I added eyeliner to the corners of the eyes, making the eyes look more tribal.

After this, I mixed a brick read colour which I used on the lips, cheek and jaw, imitating tribal 'war paint' in a more beautiful fashion. When applying, I followed the shape of the lips and cheek bone, and as I painted onto the jaw line I tipped my model's head back to make sure the application under her jaw line was even and didn't stop just because it wasn't as visible.

I also used the colour so apply more shapes over the back and shoulders, curving around the neck and following the scars I'd put there.

Brave New World: Final Look #1 Breakdown

After cleaning my model's face and priming it, I started by applying the gelatin moulds I'd created earlier in the day. (To create the moulds I use acetate; drawing out the design on one side and turning it over to apply the gelatin from a bottle, following the guides I had drawn.) I applied the design using mastik and starting at the lip, moving down the neck, making sure not to put my model through discomfort by pressing lightly on the gelatin until it stuck.

After applying the neck scarring, I moved on to the cheeks, applying in the same method, pushing into the hairline a little to fit with the face better. After all the scarring was applied, I used foundation and setting powder over her face and neck, using minimal over the scarring to blend it though keep the pink colour of the gelatin I used to look more like keloid scarring.

After I was happy with the scarring and foundation, I darkened the eyebrows before applying eyeshadow around the eyes, I started with a light brown, adding dark brown to the the outer corner of the eyes to shape them and look a little more dramatic though natural coloured. Once happy, I applied eyeliner to the waterline and finished with mascara.

To finish the look, I used a deep chocolate brown on the lips to match the outer corner eye shadow colour used previously.

Brave New World: Storyboard and Moodboards

Storyboard of Idea Process

Final Design #1 Moodboard - Guide Reference

Final Design #2 Moodboard - Guide Reference

Brave New World: Keloid Scarring

(http://www.scarformula.com/images/hypertrophic-scar.jpg)

As part of the research into the aspects of my final looks, I took a moment to consider the type of scarring that would create the effect I'm trying to produce. Keloid scarring, also known as hypertrophic scars, is the term for scars that grow 'lumpy' and are raised from the surface of the skin, much like the looks I am achieve. Keloid scarring is also more common to occur to people from African, African-Caribbean and south Indian communities, explaining why tribes are so successful in creating the unique scarification look.
After discovering these facts I set about looking into the appearance of keloid scarring on white skin as both my models are Caucasian, the scars look more redder and almost sore which I think is a key element I need to consider into my looks to make the scarring more realistic in order to push the boundaries of the fashion style shoot.
Although the idea of what style of scarring I'll base the scars of my designs from is only a small part of the look, considering it has helped shape them further and will make the overall makeup far more dramatic.

References:
NHS Choices (7th March 2012) Keloid and Hypertrophic Scars. [Online] Available From: http://www.nhs.uk/Livewell/skin/Pages/Keloidscarring.aspx [Accessed: 5th December 2013]

Brave New World: Final Designs

 

In the end, I decided to stick with the original design as I am very happy with it as is, though I did do a quick sketch to illustrate how the design would continue down the neck for the keloid scarring, I kept it simple but what I though looked pretty as I didn't want to over do it and make it look too busy. I am using a model with short hair so will require no hair styling, though if I find it distracts from the look I'll gel it all back to keep the look very simple but elegant and the focus on the keloid patterns.

I feel confident in my abilities to do this look well and create a beautiful piece of work I can be proud of while still demonstrating my skills as a makeup artist.

 

For my second look I have sketched out roughly the patterns the rest of the scars and red marking will follow as a reference when applying the make up to my model. I'm excited to do this look as I know seeing it finished will look very different to my rough sketches and is more of a full piece of work than my other design as it continue down much more of the body. As my model has long hair, I have considered a few ideas and settled on the idea of keeping it down and curling it, though people may think this will obscure the makeup, I will be using products they won't smudge or be disturbed if hair cover across or rests upon it, so while taking photos I can place the models hair over her shoulders as required to show the makeup as I take the photos.

Once again, I confident in my abilities to do this look, I have practiced a lot with methods of scarification so believe I can create a beautiful look as well as a beautiful set of images involving more than just the face of my model.

Brave New World: 'Scarification' Improvement

Technique:
1) Create gelatin moulds onto acetate
2) Apply moulds to skin using spirit gum
3) Powder area to make sure nothing is sticky
4) Colour match to skin - Apply foundation to moulds and over skin (Discolour scars if desired)
5) Powder to set

I think using this technique has vastly improved my ability to mimic scarification onto the skin and is a method I find far easier and more effective. As this technique doesn't involve latex, there is no pealing during application of the foundation which makes the applying more makeup over the top much easier too. This is definitely the technique I will be using to create my final looks, though may spend more time adding discolouration to the scars as I struggled applying the makeup to myself to practice and was unable to view it as another person.

Brave New World: Idea Development

When designing this look, I created the marking for keloid scarring before adding any colour for the makeup, in the end i decided on a very natural brown look, though it seems very simply, it looks very effective and will most likely use this as one of my final looks or elabourate upon it to create something I find to be more effective. I am very happy with the design of the scarring and think this is also an element I'd definitely like to keep for the final look.

Unlike the last design, this design is using black against a very pale face, though once I drew it out, I find it looks too plain and simple, because of this I'm not as happy with this idea and won't use it in my final look, though my try to combine some part with the first design to create a final look I'll be happy with.

This is the third look I drew up, I tried using the structure of the face as a guide for the scarification to try highlight the face better, adding in some red markings with lip colour to match, though feel the look seems too arranged and not as beautiful as it could be so set out draw another design after it keeping some of the elements I liked but focusing on trying to create a more natural yet beautiful design.

Using some element of the third look I created this face chart keeping the red facial markings and matching it with the lip colour, I also liked the shape of the eye make up so did adjust it somewhat and add brown eye shadow instead to make the make up more natural looking and less harsh. I then added in the marking for scarification fitting around the markings and following around the opposite side of the eye to the other design. I am very happy with how this idea came out and will definitely be using it in my final look, developing it further to continue the marks and scars down the neck, shoulders and back.

Brave New World: Final Ideas Proposal

Throughout my research, I have constantly stuck with the idea of using scarification in at least one of my final pieces, and this is not changing other than the fact I would like the base both of my final looks on using scars to create beautiful and fashionable makeup looks.

One look will be using the art of scarification, applying small gelatin moulds to create patterns across the body with small lumps, not only over the face but continuing down the neck, chest and back. I have already secured my model who has agreed to let me apply makeup down her back to achieve the look I wish to create.

My second look will be creating long keloid scars across the face and down the neck in patterns though also trying to enhance their face shape, such as applying the main patterns down the cheek bone and jaw. I think this could make a very unique by pretty overall look and I'm excited to start planning the look out.

For both looks I am considering including other marking over the body corresponding with the scars but as tattoos or like paint used in tribal where I will texture it as required. I'm looking forwards to experimenting with final makeup ideas and creating the best looks I possibly can.

Brave New World: Making Moulds

There are a lot of different techniques for making moulds, but I would like to focus on ways in which gelatin can be used to create the mould as this will be my main material for all my prosthetic pieces such as scarification for imitating body implants.

Technique for Large Moulds:
1) Select mould
2) Grease with vaseline (so won't bind)
3) Melt gelatin in suitable container in microwave
4) Pour gelatin into mould
5) Leave to set
6) Remove from mould and powder
7) Ready to use

I experimented using a pill packet to create my moulds, but ice cube trays and a variety of other every day items can be used to create large moulds to attach to the body, this technique I find is best for imitating body implants rather than scarification. I have considered if I wanted a certain shape as an implant I would most likely need to press the item into clay to make a mould to use the gelatin in.

Technique for Small Moulds (Scarification):
1) Grease an acetate sheet with vaseline
2) Melt gelatin in bottle (Best to do by placing bottle in boiling water)
3) Squeeze small amounts of gelatin onto acetate sheet to create small drops/lumps
4) Allow to set
5) Remove from mould and powder
6) Ready to use

I really like this technique for creating the bumps for scarification and feel much more comfortable applying these to the body in order to create the look, looking better over all than using rice and latex so this will be the method I use when creating my final pieces. This technique for mould making can also be used to create long raised keloid scars over the skin for creating patterns.

Brave New World: Applying Bald Caps

Technique:
1) Wet the hair - completely
2) Gel hair and flatten onto head (long hair spilt in half and wrap around head - not onto face)
3) Use brush and comb to flatten hair as much as possible
4) Ask model to hold front of bald cap
5) Pull over head - use mirror to keep in center and even
6) Cut to shape of face etc (Do not stretch) - cut off in small sections
7) Spirit gum edges down
8) Colour with face or build upon

After applying the bald cap, I experimented with application of fullers earth on top and coloured spray, I enjoyed this a lot more than I expected I would and now am very willing to consider it as part of my final looks as I am confident I would be able to apply it well enough. The great thing about bald caps is you can build and stick stuff to it, creating a more abstract body modification inspired piece.

Brave New World: 3-D Printing

My previous posts were about Plastic Surgery and Body Implants, since then I have come across an article in the news about 3-D printing and I couldn't help but think about all the advances it could bring into these two body modifications.

(http://img.gawkerassets.com/img/18jal994ekemxjpg/k-bigpic.jpg)

The one thing I think 3-D printing can really help with is the making of prosthetic for people who have lost limbs, eyes, ears etc due to accidents or illness. This can really help those who have found themselves 'disfigured' and greatly build their confidence up again as they are able to look more like how they used to before. Commonly the prosthetic pieces were sculpted, painted and designed all by hand and judging from view, now there are new digital advanced, it's more likely the designs created by the software available will be able to accurately match the body and fit better.

Though 3-D printing will most likely be moved into other areas of plastic surgery as well, helping people redesign their facial or body structure using implants printed and designed with this new technology. As well as printing new shapes and designs for people to implant under their skin in further body modifications.

Though this isn't very relevant to my final looks, I found it very interesting to think upon and wanted to share my opinions towards 3-D printing.


References:
The Times (19th October 2013) How 3-D Printing will change our world. [Online] Available From: http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/technology/techreview/article3896244.ece [Accessed: 20th November 2013]

Brave New World: Body Implants

(http://news.bme.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/note-shaped-implant.jpg)

One of the newest forms of body modification is the implant. The implant is is a item, the shape is down to the person, embedded under the skin, pressing against the surface and creating the shape pushing out of the skin. A deep incision is made into the flesh and the item pushed inside under a thick layer of skin.

Creating what appears to be a body implant on someone could be really interesting, if done right could make it appear as though it is embedded in their skin and not applied on top. I will experiment and see if any ideas strike me for my final looks.

Reference:
Housk Randall and Ted Polhemus (2000) The Customized Body. Serpent's Tail. Italy.
Arnold Rubin (1995) Marks of Civilization: Artistic Transformations of the Human Body. Regents of the University of California. Singapore.

Brave New World: Plastic Surgery

One of the most extreme forms of body modification is plastic surgery, though many people look past the fact it is a modification and it is treated as a very normal thing in society due to the large amount of celebrities who have work done.

(http://medicalxtourism.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Plastic-Surgery-in-Istanbul-Turkey.jpg)

A lot of people use plastic surgery as a way to 'fix' what they dislike about their bodies, unfortunately including a heavy amount of work done to people's faces. Though a lot of people dislike the idea of plastic surgery, it's not always about the vanity of people, it is very common for people who have horrific accidents to receive plastic surgery to help them recover and look they did before the incident. Plastic surgery has a very important role to play in the medical industry helping people cope and get back to normal after an accident, though it doesn't always fix the issue perfectly, it's a big step and helps more than not having the surgery at all.

Though Plastic Surgery is a very common form of body modification and I see how I'd use the idea of it in my final pieces, it doesn't interest me as much as some of the other areas of body modification so I probably won't involve it in my final ideas.

Brave New World: Western Tattoo and Piercing

Unlike Tribal culture, tattoos and piercings aren't a way of celebrating new achievements or life goals unless this is the persons personal reasoning. In the African tribes, it is forced upon them as a right of passage and they wouldn't agree to if there was the choice, so it's strange that Western culture has taken these methods from them and people willing inflict these methods upon themselves.

We are constantly pushing the boundaries and actually have more known piercings than that of the original origins. Stretching has also become very popular among the younger generations, some taking it to extremes and causing themselves many problems by doing so, including ripping their flesh and snapping earlobes. Mostly people use excessive piercings as a way to rebel against society or be more individual, spending into the hundreds to achieve it.

Perhaps more popular than excessive piercings is tattooing, some people spending a couple of hundred just to get one piece. We are in the generation which tattooing has become a normal accessory, a lot of people even just having one small one in a hidden away place. There are a lot of careless people who forget a tattoo is a permanent marking and have come to regret the work done; such as a name or something they had done on a whim, whereas others have tattoos which others find are too much but the owner loves and doesn't regret having done even in old age. Tattoos are very personal and even if the person says they have no meaning behind their tattoo, it reflects who they are and what they are interested in and find beautiful.

I think it could be very interesting to include tattooing in my project, creating a character behind the marking on the skin and creating a story through body art.


Reference:
Housk Randall and Ted Polhemus (2000) The Customized Body. Serpent's Tail. Italy.
Arnold Rubin (1995) Marks of Civilization: Artistic Transformations of the Human Body. Regents of the University of California. Singapore.
Karl Groning (2001) Decorated Skin: A World Survey of Body Art. Thames and Hudson. Germany.
Rufus C.Camphausen (1997) Return of the Tribal: A Celebration of Body Adornment. Park Street Press, Rochester, Vermont. India.

Brave New World: Experimenting with 'Scarification'

Technique:
1) Apply rice etc with matik/spirit gum
2) Dry with hairdryer
3) Apply latex
4) Dry with hairdryer
5) Cover with rosey/reddish colour to block colour of items and latex then powder
6) Then match to skin colour/discolour scars
7) Powder to set

Those these aren't the best images, here is my first attempt at recreating scarification with latex, rice and beans, foundation apply over the top to hide colour and match to the skin.

This was my first time doing anything like this, I know there is a lot I need to improve on but for my first attempt, I'm fairly pleased. I'm excited to try more methods to achieving this look and improving my skills to make it as realistic as it can be. With much more practice, I hope to include a more refined version of designs like this in one of my final pieces.

Brave New World: Asia Body Modification

Nose Plugs

(http://i2.asntown.net/ha/mix3/weirdnosepiercing/Apatani-nose-plugs.jpg)

This wasn't very common trend and no longer exists today, it was used by the Apatani as a way to make their women seem less attractive so that they would not be kidnapped. Unlike the African tribes who used body modification  to highlight beauty, the Apatani used body modification to make their women uglier and less likely to be targeted.


Neck Rings

(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/03/Kayan_woman_with_neck_rings.jpg)

Neck rings were also used in Asia as a way to make the neck more elegant and swan-like, highlighting beauty through modifications as in Africa.

Kayan now has increased use of neck rings, originally, they were not used from a young age, but has become a way to give their people a better life, many have moved into 'fake villages' set up for tourist viewing, though the way of life is better and they are more looked after, neck rings are popular demand as it highlights a physical difference between their lifestyle and those visiting.


Tooth Modification: Blackening Teeth

(http://cdn.omg-facts.com/2012/12/19/85f95272c5e9c999e69711913434b7d9.jpg)

In Japan, having black teeth was high sexualised and was common for prostitutes to blacken their teeth before performing a sexual act. It was used as a way to protect their teeth, and although the ingredients used weren't to most protective, the idea was picked up in Vietnam where it became popular and the mix used was proven to protect teeth enamel.


Though none of these ideas jump out at me for a final design in my project, I will look into involving them and make-up techniques I could used to create them, it would be interesting to develop further ideas, though nose plugs do not strike me as something that would be used in a fashion based look.


Reference:
Arnold Rubin (1995) Marks of Civilization: Artistic Transformations of the Human Body. Regents of the University of California. Singapore.
Karl Groning (2001) Decorated Skin: A World Survey of Body Art. Thames and Hudson. Germany.
Rufus C.Camphausen (1997) Return of the Tribal: A Celebration of Body Adornment. Park Street Press, Rochester, Vermont. India.

Brave New World: African Body Modification

Scarification
(Mark of the Crocodile)

(http://www.cvltnation.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/scarification_2.jpg)

Listed below are the areas in which scarification has been found to be used by the tribes living there:
- Nuba
- Shilluk
- DR Congo

Many tribes have been studied to better understand the meaning behind scarification as a ritual, and it has been discovered there are a variety of different reasons behind the marks created, though there are still a vast amount of similarities despite the distance and lack of communications.

It is very common for a person to under-go scarification as a right of passage, for some it's a mark of reaching adulthood and for other there are certain areas or patterns used to mark different achievements they have met in life, for example, giving birth. It is also thought of as a way to separate ones self from other cultures and animals.

In some tribes, an individual will receive a line of dotted scars down their torso, one for every person they have killed, used as a way to prove their strength over others and warn or scare other tribes away from their land and any possible fights.

Though it's also thought that scars are common for signifying heightened sexuality, mostly in females.


Piercings and Stretching

(http://www.ezakwantu.com/Lip%20Plug%20African%2004.jpg)

It has become common in Western culture for people to have a variety of different piercings all over their bodies, many stretching their ear lobes, much fewer stretching other areas of their body. However, African tribes are well known for stretching areas of their body as a sign of beauty.

African tribes commonly use lip plates and stretch both their upper and/or bottom lip, though most have stopped upper lip stretching.

They are also known for using rings around their necks to stretch their neck upwards, a long and slender neck is also considered beautiful and elegant and makes a female more desirable.


Skull Binding
(Lidompo)

(http://www.octopuspiercing.hr/cms/sites/default/files/4092929561_7ff91e7ba9.jpg)

Though not many tribes were involved with this particular body modification, it is also a well known one. From a young age, mostly female children would have their head bound to make their skull appear longer and more elegant. Very elaborate hairstyles would also be used to adorn the head and make it appear taller, though as skull binding was eradicated, the hairstyles remained to imitate the effect.


For my project, I am very interested in recreating the look of scarification with make up and creating patterns over the body via this method. If I achieve the look well, I would be very happy and excited to use it in one of my final looks.


Reference:
Arnold Rubin (1995) Marks of Civilization: Artistic Transformations of the Human Body. Regents of the University of California. Singapore.
Karl Groning (2001) Decorated Skin: A World Survey of Body Art. Thames and Hudson. Germany.
Rufus C.Camphausen (1997) Return of the Tribal: A Celebration of Body Adornment. Park Street Press, Rochester, Vermont. India.

Brave New World: Introduction to Brief

"This unit will introduce students to the contexts relevant to the research, design of special effects make-up and prosthetics processes for a fashion led production. By exploring how changing its shape and texture can alter the appearance of the human face and body, students will develop an awareness of materials to distort, age and texture the skin.  This will be used as the basis for creative design development and establish the relationship between research, design and realisation. Students will investigate, develop and design in response to a creative fashion brief. The unit encourages specialist technical development underpinned by an understanding of the principles of make-up and basic prosthetics for conceptual beauty design and realisation. Students will develop an understanding of how complex techniques can be used creatively and will be encouraged to expand on an enquiring approach to the technical development of creative make-up for a specific beauty and fashion industry context."

(Southampton Solent: My Course. (2013) Make-Up for Special Effects (FMS507) [Online} Available from: http://mycourse.solent.ac.uk/course/view.php?id=8028 [Accessed: 15th October 2013])

I am very excited to get stuck into this project, I think most people expected blood and gore from this unit, but I'm thrilled we get to experiment with another side of special effects make-up via manipulating the body and creating a beautiful look out of an idea which itself might be undesired because of it's practice.

Although I already have some initial ideas, I'm going to explore and research more, practicing as much as possible to achieve the best outcomes before creating my final designs and transferring them onto a person to create my final looks.